Our geese friends have needed a full-body suit for those times when they want to be in full costume. You just can’t pull off a bunny look with a goose tail sticking out the back! They are VERY excited to show off their new looks. Even after Easter is over, these body suits could be used for other costumes or every day outfits during the colder seasons.
“Ducke” wanted a chick costume. I think he looks more like Big Bird, but as Sesame Street fans that’s ok too.
“Goose” had long floppy ears at first. He really liked them that way, but then got busy chasing around the new little bunny friend and decided they needed to be tied up on top of his head and out of the way a bit. If you would prefer stand-up ears, you could use the ones from my “bunny ears” pattern.
Watch for more fancy outfits to come each month. You can find the latest “Ducke and Goose” patterns at THIS LINK. See the full list of goose outfits and accessories at THIS LINK.
Where To Get The Goose
This is designed for a 23” goose statue like the one sold by Miles Kimball: https://www.mileskimball.com/buy-large-white-goose-23-h-310493
It is also available from Amazon: https://amzn.to/3AdRWSP
Goose Bunny Costume Crochet Pattern
The pattern is available to view here on the blog.
An ad-free, downloadable pdf is also available to purchase: Etsy | Ravelry
Materials
- Yarn for bunny sample: 325 yards ww yarn for main suit (RHSS Pretty N Pink); 30 yards ww yarn for the ears (RHSS Retro Stripes and Petail Pink); 15 yards ww yarn for the pompom tail (or commercial pompom)
- Crochet Hook: G (4-4.5mm), I (5.5mm)
- Supplies: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, 4 stitch markers (yarn scraps work for this too)
- Optional: Measuring tape, scissors, commercial pompom
- Gauge: 4” with an I hook = 14 hdc sts and 10.5 rounds
Tips
- The first stitch of each row is worked into the same stitch as the turning chain unless noted.
- Numbers at the beginning of each line may refer to steps and not indicate the number of rows/rounds.
- Stitch count remains the same unless noted at end of row/round.
- Additional pictures available on pae 8.
- If you have any questions about this pattern please contact [email protected].
Bodysuit
This starts at the bottom of the neck and is worked towards the tail. The top/hood section is added after the body is complete.
1. With an I hook and ww yarn (pink in bunny sample), ch 40, sl st in the last ch from hook to form a circle.
Make sure the chain is not twisted.
2. Ch 1, hdc in the same ch and in each ch around, sl st in the first st to join. (40sts)
3. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st around, sl st to join.
4. Ch 1, *hdc 19, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st to join. (42sts)
5. Ch 1, *hdc 20, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st to join. (44sts)
6. Ch 1, *hdc 10, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (48sts)
7. Ch 1, *hdc 11, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (52sts)
8. Ch 1, *hdc 12, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (56sts)
9. Ch 1, *hdc 13, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (60sts)
10. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.
11. Ch 1, *hdc 14, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (64sts)
12. Ch 1, *hdc 15, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (68sts)
13. Ch 1, *hdc 16, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (72sts)
14. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.
15. Ch 1, *hdc 35, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st to join. (74sts)
16. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.
17. Ch 1, *hdc 36, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st to join. (76sts)
18. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.
19. Repeat the previous round for an additional 8 rounds.
20. This step starts a triangle, wedge shape. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 16, sc2tog. (18sts) Leave remaining sts unworked.
21. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st until 2 sts remain, sc2tog. (16sts)
22. Repeat the previous row until 4 sts remain.
23. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc2tog. (2sts)
24. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog. Finish off the yarn.
25. Skip 14 sts on the last full round and attach the yarn to the 15th st (see photo below left). Repeat steps 20-24, but do not finish off the yarn at the end of step 24 this time.
26. This step is worked down the side of the current triangle, across the wider flat edge (not the 14 skipped sts), and up the side of the second triangle.
Ch 1, turn to work from the RS of the piece. Hdc in the same st, hdc 11 sts evenly spaced down the side of the triangle, hdc2tog at the corner (pick up a st from the side and the row), hdc 20, hdc2tog at the corner (pick up a st from the row and the side), hdc 11 sts evenly up the side of the triangle, hdc in the tip of the 2nd triangle. Do not continue down the opposite side of the rectangle. (46sts)
| Steps 27-43 are worked back and forth in rows to extend the piece towards the tail. From this point on, work the hdc sts between the posts of the previous row. This will create a smoother fabric and will blend in better with the section worked in rounds. |
27. Ch 1, turn, sc 9, hdc 28, sc 9.
28. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 7, hdc 28, sc 7, sc2tog. (44sts)
29. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 7, hdc 26, sc 7, sc2tog. (42sts)
30. Ch 1, turn, sc 8, hdc 26, sc 8.
31. Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st/between the posts to end of row.
32-33. Ch 1, turn, hdc between each post to end of row.
34. Ch 1, turn, hdc2tog, hdc 38, hdc2tog. (40sts)
35. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc 8*, repeat to end of row. (36sts)
36. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc 7*, repeat to end of row. (32sts)
37. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc 6*, repeat to end of row. (28sts)
38. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc 5*, repeat to end of row. (24sts)
39. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc 4*, repeat to end of row. (20sts)
40. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc 3*, repeat to end of row. (16sts)
41. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc 2*, repeat to end of row. (12sts)
42. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc*, repeat to end of row. (8sts)
43. Ch 1, turn, *hdc2tog, hdc 2*, repeat once. (6sts). Finish off, leaving a long tail for closing the end.
With a yarn needle, use the yarn tail to weave in and out of the remaining sts, pull to close and secure the
yarn tail. Remember this point. It is where the yarn will be attached for step 44.
44. This step adds a band to the bottom opening and helps creates the part that will wrap over the tail.
First, let’s divide the bottom opening into ¼ sections to make it easier to work the first round.
Fold the piece in half with the tail at one end and the head at the other. Place a marker in the tail point
mentioned in step 43. This will be referred to as the “starting stitch point”.
Divide the bottom edge in 1/4s and place a marker at each point.
See the photo below.
With the right side facing, use the same size hook to attach the same yarn to the starting stitch point.
Ch 1, hdc 76 sts evenly around the bottom opening, sl st in the first st to join.
Tip: hdc 19sts between each set of markers.
45. Ch 1, *FPHDC around the next post, BPHDC around the next post*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join.
46. Ch 1, FPHDC2tog, BPHDC2tog, *FPHDC around the next post, BPHDC around the next post*, repeat until
4 sts remain, FPHDC2tog, BPHDC2tog. (72sts)
If needed, repeat step 45 to add more rounds. I suggest trying the suit on your goose and smoothing it into place (note on page 6) before adding more rounds.
Finish off and weave in ends.
Neck/Head Section (optional)
1. This part starts the neck section. See the photo below for this step. Lay the suit on a flat surface with the feet opening lined up. With an I hook, attach the same yarn to a st on the beginning neck edge at the right. Do not ch 1. Sc in the first st, hdc in each st to end of round. Do not join. Place a marker for working in the round. (40sts)
2. Hdc 8, hdc2tog*, repeat to end of round.(36sts)
3. Hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round.
4. *hdc 7, hdc2tog*, repeat to end of round.(32sts)
5. Hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round.
6. Hdc 14, hdc2tog*, repeat to end of round. (30sts)
7. Hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round.
8. Repeat the previous round for an additional 7 rounds.
9. Sc in the next st, sl st in the next st. This is the new beginning of the round. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to the end of the round, sl st to join.
| From this point on, work the hdc sts between the posts of the previous row. This will create a smoother fabric and will blend in better with the section worked in rounds. |
10. Ch 1, TURN, hdc in the same st, hdc 24. (25sts) Leave the remaining sts unworked.
11. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, hdc 21, sc2tog. (23sts)
12. Ch 1, turn, hdc in the same st and in each st across.
13. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, hdc 19, sc2tog. (21sts)
14. Ch 1, turn, hdc in the same st and in eah st across.
15. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, hdc 17, sc2tog. (19sts)
16. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, hdc 15, sc2tog. (17sts)
17. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 13, sc2tog. (15sts)
18. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 11, sc2tog. (13sts)
19. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 9, sc2tog. (11sts)
20. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 7, sc2tog. (9sts)
21. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog. (7sts)
22. This step is worked around the outer edge of the opening. Ch 1, sc 11 evenly down the side of the opening.
Sc2tog at the corner (pick up a st from the side and the bottom row), sc 4, sc2tog (pick up a st from the
current row and from the side), sc 11 evenly up the side of the opening, sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog, sl st to join.
Finish off and weave in ends.
Pompom Tail: Cut a piece of white yarn 12” long. This will be used to tie around the middle of the pompom. Set aside.
- Wrap a strand of white yarn around the palm of your hand 60+ times.
- Carefully slide the loops off your hand.
- Use the 12” piece to wrap around the middle of the yarn loops and snugly tie a knot.
- Hold onto the ends of this piece of yarn.
- Trim the loops and pom as desired.
- Use the yarn tails to tie the pompom to the tip of the tail.
Ears (make 2)
For the bunny sample, I started with a light pink yarn and then changed to RHSS Retro Stripes.
1. This starts and the center of the ear. With a G hook and ww yarn (light pink in sample), ch 31, sc in the 2nd
ch from hook and in each ch across. (30sts)
2. Ch 1, turn, sc in the same st and in each st to end of row.
3. Ch 1, turn, sc in the same st, sc 19, hdc 9, 3hdc in the last st, 3dc in the edge of the piece, 3hdc in the next
st (back of beginning chain), hdc 9, sc 20. (67sts)
Tip: This step is worked in a U shaped. You should work across the row, into the end (for the tip of the ear) and back down the beginning edge.
4. Finish off the current color and change colors if desired (yelllow in sample). Ch 1, turn, sc in the same st, sc
25, hdc 4, *2dc in the next st, dc*, repeat 2 more times, 2dc in the next st, hdc 4, sc 26. (71sts)
5. Ch 1, turn, sl st in the same st, sl st 24, sc 7, *2hdc in the next st, hdc*, repeat 3 more times, sc 7, sl st 24.
(75sts) Finish off, leaving an 8” tail. Set aside.
Place the two ear pieces with right sides together. Line up the sts of the short, flat end. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, sew the edges together.
Choose one of the following options for attaching the ears to the hood:
Option A: Sewn flat – Fold the middle, seamed area in half and sew this section to the top of the hood.
Option B: Middle knot – tie the middle of the ears in a loose knot. With a yarn needle and matching yarn, sew the bottom edge of the knot to the top of the head.
Pompom Pouf For Hair (yellow sample): Cut a piece of matching yarn 12” long. This will be used to tie around the middle of the pompom. Set aside.
1. Wrap a strand of white yarn around the palm of your hand 20 times.
2. Carefully slide the loops off your hand.
3. Use the 12” piece to wrap around the middle of the yarn loops and snugly tie a knot.
4. Hold onto the ends of this piece of yarn.
5. Trim the loops and pom as desired.
6. Use the yarn tails to tie the pompom to the top of the hood.
Sleeves (make 2)
The sleeve starts at the top/shoulder.
Leave a long tail in the beginning for attaching sleeve to suit when complete.
1. With an I hook and ww yarn (color to match the suit), start with a magic circle of 8 sc sts (or preferred method for starting a circle of 8 sc sts), pull to close and place a marker for working in the round. (8sts)
2. 2hdc in each st to end of round. (16sts)
3. *2hdc in the next st, hdc 3*, repeat to end of round. (20sts)
4. Hdc in each st to end of round.
5. *2hdc in the next st, hdc 4*, repeat to end of round. (24sts)
6-7. Hdc in each st to end of round.
8. *2hdc in the next st, hdc 11*, repeat once. (26sts)
9. Hdc in each st to end of round.
10. Sc, sl st. This is the new beginning of the round. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.
11. Ch 1, FPHDC around each post from the previous round, sl st to join.
12. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends.
13. The white yarn for the remaining part of the wing will be attached to the inner ridge created from step 11. Pull the top edge back and use an I hook to attach white yarn to a st. See photo below for placement. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join. (26sts)
14. Ch 1, *hdc2tog, hdc 11*, repeat once, sl st to join. (24sts)
15. Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog, sl st to join. (22sts)
16. Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog, sl st to join. (20sts)
17. Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog, sl st to join. (18sts)
18. Ch 1, hdc in each st to end of round, sl st to join.
19. Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog, sl st to join. (16sts)
20. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st until 2 sts remain, sc2tog, sl st to join. (14sts)
21. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st until 2 sts remain, sc2tog, sl st to join. (12sts)
22. Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st until 2 sts remain, sc2tog, sl st to join. (10sts)
23. Ch 1, *sc2tog*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (5sts) Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing the end.
With a yarn needle, use the yarn tail to weave in and out of the remaining sts. Pull closed and secure the end.
Notice in the main photo above that one edge of the white wing part tapers towards the end tip and the other stays more straight. Adjust your wing and flatten it to resemble the photo.
Use the beginning yarn tail to sew the top 1” of the shoulder part of each wing to the body suit. This is easiest when the suit is on the goose. See main photos for placement.
NOTE: if the wing tips will be sewn together, make sure the placement of the wings allows for the tips to meet. You will want them to stay snug against the goose so it will be able to hold things.
Use a yarn needle and white (matching) yarn to sew the tips of the wings together if desired.
Little Bunnies and Chicks
The little friends the geese are holding are “bath buddies” I was working on at the same time as the goose suits. They fit in their arms perfectly and were a cute little addition. The pattern for these little friends is included in the pdf (available soon) and for free on my blog at THIS LINK.