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Free Pattern: 23in Celebrating Shelby Set

Meet my latest set, “Celebrating Shelby”. This sweater and dress set is designed for your 23” goose friend to wear throughout the year, celebrating each holiday along the way when you don’t have time to make a whole new outfit.  Your favorite applique can be sewn to the front or made to be interchangeable. You’ll love the springy headbands and will want one for each celebration too. 

Yearlong Crochet Along

Join me ALL YEAR LONG as our geese celebrate the different holidays with add on packs, all free on my blog.

The pattern for this first pack is below and includes the dress and sweater, plus hearts because love is always in season.

Where can you find all of the patterns for the monthly packs? Since there will end up being MANY patterns and in 3 different sizes (yep a mini is in the works), I have set up a hub for all patterns, all sizes: SHELBY HUB

More Patterns Great for Valentines, February, and LOVEly Settings

Celebrating Shelby Dress and Sweater Crochet Patterns

The patterns are available to follow along here on my blog for free below. An ad-free, downloadable pattern is also available to purchase from my shops for a small fee (available soon): Etsy | Ravelry

Materials and Details

  • Yarn: 200 yards worsted weight yarn per outfit.
    Sample yarns
    Dress: Red Heart Speckles Bubblegum, Shocking Pink
    Sweater: Red Heart Bitty Stripes Pink Lemonade
    Mini Hearts: Red Heart Pretty N Pink, Aruba, Pale Plum, Metallic Red
    Hair: Red Heart Cafe
  • Crochet Hooks:  H (5mm), I (5.5mm), J (6mm) 
  • Supplies: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, tiny spring (best from inside a pen) or thin wire to create your own
  • Optional: Measuring tape, scissors, 10 small rubber bands for the hairstyle, pliers
    Optional for Interchangeable heart: 3 – 1” brads (paper fastener)
  • Gauge: 4” with an I hook = 13 hdc sts and 10 rounds
  • Measurements (measured flat)
    Dress: Bottom edge – 17.5″ across (straight line, not along the curve), Neck – 5-5.5” across , Length – 13.5” (before top roll)
    Sweater: Bottom edge – 12”, Neck – 5-5.5”, Length – 12.5”

Tips

  • The first stitch of each round is worked into the same stitch as the turning chain unless noted.
  • Numbers at the beginning of each line may refer to steps and not indicate the number of rows/rounds.
  • Stitch count remains the same unless noted at end of row/round.
  • If you have any questions about this pattern please contact [email protected].

This is designed for a 23” plastic or crocheted goose (links below) and a 28” cement goose.

– large crocheted goose: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/big-stuffed-goose 

– plastic statue like the one sold by Miles Kimball: https://www.mileskimball.com/buy-large-white-goose-23-h-310493

Dress

This starts at the neck and is worked towards the bottom edge.

Hook size: 23” I hook; 28” J hook

1. With a hook and worsted weight yarn (Sample: Pink Lemonade), ch 36, sl st in the last ch from hook to form a circle. Make sure the chain is not twisted. Ch 1, sc in the same ch and in each ch to end of round, sl st to join. (36sts)

2-4. Ch 1, hdc in each st to end of round, sl st to join. 

5. Ch 1, *hdc 17, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (38sts)

6. Ch 1, *hdc 18, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (40sts)

7. Ch 1, *hdc 19, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (42sts)

8. Ch 1, *hdc 20, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (44sts)

9. Ch 1, *hdc 10, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (48sts)

10. Finish off the current yarn and change to yarn for the first stripe (Sample: White). Ch 1, *hdc 11, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (52sts)

11. Ch 1, *hdc 12, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (56sts)

12. Ch 1, *hdc 13, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (60sts)

13. Ch 1, *hdc 14, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (64sts)

14. Finish off the current yarn and change back to the original yarn. Ch 1, *hdc 15, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (68sts)

15. Ch 1, *hdc 16, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (72sts)

16. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.

17. Ch 1, *hdc 35, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (74sts)

18. Finish off the current yarn and change to yarn for the second stripe (Sample: White). Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join. 

19-21. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.

22. Finish off the current yarn and change back to the original yarn. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.

23. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.

Note: 28” size – add 2 additional rounds.

24. This step starts the skirt. Ch 4, dc in the same st, sk 1, *(dc, ch 1, dc) in the next st, sk 1*, repeat to end of round, sl st in the first space to join.

25. Ch 4, dc in the same space, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each space to end of round, sl st in the first space to join.

26. 23” size – Repeat the previous round one time. 

        28” size – Repeat the previous round two times.

Tip: I think this would be a beautiful long dress as well. To add length, see the notes under each of the following steps. 

27. Ch 5, dc in the same space, (dc, ch 2, dc) in each space to end of round, sl st in the first space to join. 

Note: to add length, repeat step 27 two more times. 

28. Ch 6, dc in the same space, (dc, ch 3, dc) in each space to end of round, sl st in the first space to join.

Note: to add length, repeat step 28 two more times or until skirt is 1” shorter than desired length. 

29. This step adds trim to the bottom edge of the skirt. *ch 4, sl st in the same space, ch 3, sl st in the next ch 3 space*, repeat to end of round. 

Note: This should create little bumps above each ch 3 space from step 29, with a chain between. Finish off and weave in ends.

Top Edge: In the sample, the top edge is rolled down just a bit to finish if off with a type of turtleneck look. This is optional. You could leave the neck up and add a little necklace or beads to dress up the outfit. 

Sweater

This starts at the neck and is worked towards the bottom edge.

Hook size: 23” I hook; 28” J hook

1. With a hook and worsted weight yarn (Sample: Pink Lemonade), ch 36, sl st in the last ch from hook to form a circle. Make sure the chain is not twisted. Ch 1, sc in the same ch and in each ch to end of round, sl st to join. (36sts)

2-4. Ch 1, hdc in each st to end of round, sl st to join. 

5. Ch 1, *hdc 17, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (38sts)

6. Ch 1, *hdc 18, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (40sts)

7. Ch 1, *hdc 19, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (42sts)

8. Ch 1, *hdc 20, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (44sts)

9. Ch 1, *hdc 10, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (48sts)

10. Ch 1, *hdc 11, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (52sts)

11. Ch 1, *hdc 12, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (56sts)

12. Ch 1, *hdc 13, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (60sts)

13. Ch 1, *hdc 14, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (64sts)

14. Ch 1, *hdc 15, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (68sts)

15. Ch 1, *hdc 16, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (72sts)

16. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join.

17. Ch 1, *hdc 35, 2hdc in the next st*, repeat once, sl st in the first st to join. (74sts)

18. Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of round, sl st to join. 

19. Repeat the previous round for an additional 11 rounds. 

        Add additional rounds for more length if desired.

20. Work this step in BLO (plus I like to pick up the “third loop” from behind). Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st to end of round, sl st to join. 

21. Loosely sl st in each st to end of round. Finish off and weave in ends. 

Top Edge: In the sample, the top edge is rolled down just a bit to finish if off with a type of turtleneck look. This is optional. You could leave the neck up and add a little necklace or beads to dress up the outfit. 

Chest Applique Heart(make 1 per outfit)

  • 5” tall x 4.75” across
  • It can be sewn directly to the dress/ sweater or made to be interchangeable.

1. With an H hook and worsted weight yarn (Sample: Pretty N Pink), ch 2, 2sc in the last ch from hook. (2sts)

2. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, 2sc in the next st. (4sts)

3. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. 

4. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, sc in each st until 1 st remains, 2sc in the last st. (6sts)

5. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, sc in each st until 1 st remains, 2sc in the last st. (8sts)

6. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. 

7. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, sc in each st until 1 st remains, 2sc in the last st. (10sts)

8. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, sc in each st until 1 st remains, 2sc in the last st. (12sts)

9-10. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st.

11. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, sc in each st until 1 st remains, 2sc in the last st. (14sts)

12-13. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st.

14. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, sc in each st until 1 st remains, 2sc in the last st. (16sts)

15. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st.

16. This step starts one shoulder of the heart. Ch 1, turn, sc 8. Leave remaining sts unworked. (8sts)

17-18. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. 

19. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st across. (7sts)

20. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st across. (6sts)

21. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog. (4sts)

22. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc2tog. (2sts) Finish off and weave in ends.

23. This step starts in the first unused st at the right side of step 16.  Ch 1, turn, sc 8. (8sts)

24. Repeat steps 17-22. Do not finish off the yarn. 

25. This step is worked around the outer edge of the heart. Ch 1, sc evenly down the side of the heart. Work 3sc in the tip of the heart. Sc evenly around the rest of the heart. Sl st in the first st to join. 

Finish off. If this will be sewn to the dress/ sweater, leave a long tail for sewing. If you would like to interchange this applique with others, weave in the ends.

Interchangeable appliques

Why make these interchangeable? Ever since I was little I have loved switching things out for the holidays. I have 8 geese I try to keep dressed for family and friends (plus my 3 that are usually naked) and I don’t always have time to create full sets for each. I have lots of applique patterns that would be cute on their outfits. 

How to Attach the Appliques: I wanted a way they could be swapped out without attaching snaps to the sweater since the appliques will be different sizes and shapes. 

Option 1 (preferred): After playing around with a few things, I found something that works perfectly: brads (paper fasteners)

While you could just push the brad through the two pieces, I didn’t want to see the gold knobs on the front. I made a little circle, slipped the brad through, and sewed it to the back of the applique. Small appliques might just need one, but this heart is big and I wanted it to appear like it was sewn in place. 

1. Make 3 Circles (photo below left): With an H hook and matching yarn, create a magic circle of 5 sc sts (or preferred method for making a circle of 5 sc sts), pull to close and sl st to join. (5sts) Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing in place. 

2. Insert a brad through the middle of each circle. Set one aside. With the knob end of the brad next to the back of the heart, use a yarn needle and the yarn tail to sew the circle to the heart. Check the front of the heart as you sew to make sure you are catching the sts and keeping it looking nice. Placement: the brad circles are sewn to the top, rounded section of the heart (photo below middle shows placement for one. The others are sewn next to the opposite edge and one near the bottom point.

3. Decide where you want the heart to be on the sweater. From the front/right side of the sweater, push the brads through to the inside. Carefully turn the sweater inside out and flatten the brads (photo below right). If you have long brads like in the photo I suggest trimming the ends so they won’t poke through the sweater. 

Option 2: Buttons could be sewn to the back of the appliques and then slipped through the sweater. This option might not stay in place as well and could leave gaps in the sweater. 

Tip: I like to sew a small button between the large button and heart (photo below) to make the large button stand out away from the heart. This helps when slipping the button through the sweater. 

Wig and Headband

Wig Base

1. With an H hook and worsted weight yarn (Sample: Yellow), ch 4, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (3sts)

2. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, sc, 2sc in the last st. (5sts)

3. Ch 1, turn, 2sc in the same st, hdc 3, 2sc in the last st. (7sts)

4. Ch 1, turn, sc in the same st, hdc in each st until 1 st remains, sc. 

5. Ch 1, turn, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of row. 

6. Repeat the previous row for an additional 2 rows. 

7. Ch 1, turn, hdc in the same st and in each st to end of row. 

8. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, hdc 3, sc2tog. (5sts)

9. Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog. (3sts)

10. This step is worked across the long edge to create bangs for the front of the wig. Ch 1, sc, *(sl st, ch 3, sl st) in the next st*, repeat 6 more times, sc in the next st, sl st in the corner. Finish off and weave in ends. 

Headband: Choose one of the options below.

  • Sewn to wig: With an H hook and worsted weight yarn (Sample: Metallic Red), ch 30 (40 for 28”), surface crochet across the center of the wig from one point to the other (starting point to the ending point), ch 30 (40 for 28”). Finish off and pull the ends of the chain snug to secure the sts. Trim ends.
  • Separate headband: 23” goose – With an H hook and worsted weight yarn (Sample: Metallic Red), ch 81, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 29, sc 20, sl st 30. Finish off and weave in ends.

28” goose – With an H hook and worsted weight yarn (Sample: Metallic Red), ch 101, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 39, sc 20, sl st 40. Finish off and weave in ends.

Ponytails

Cut 48 pieces of worsted weight yarn (same as wig base) 30” long (or desired length). Divide the strands into 8 groups of 6.

Tips: I like to pull the yarn pieces a part (in half) so it looks less like yarn. Secure the wig section or have someone hold it for you as you continue with styling the hair. You can put the wig on the goose and tie it snug in place, but it will still slip around when you start styling the hair…and then your goose will get all fidgety and probably won’t want to sit still anymore.

The yarn groups are pulled through 4 spots at each short end of the wig (2 in each end plus two around the corner). See photo below. 

Pull the end of 6 strands through one tip of the wig until the ends are even. 

Choose your hairstyle: At this point you could make a big ponytail, divide into thirds and braid, or create the bubbles like the sample. 

Bubbles: have 5 small rubber bands ready (clear hair bands work great). Loosely gather the hair and carefully place the hairband around this hair. Tug the hair a bit until you get the look you want. Repeat 3 more times or desired amount. Refer to photo if needed.
Repeat for the opposite side of the head. 

Mini Hearts for Hair and Springy Headband 

  • Hair: make 8 or desired amount based on hairstyle…I originally did 8 but the 2 up by the head looked like earmuffs so that is why there aren’t any there. Sample: 2 Aruba, 2 Pale Plum, 2 Pretty N Pink, 2 Turqua
  • Headband: make 4 and set aside.

1. With an H hook and worsted weight yarn (Sample: Metallic Red), start with a magic circle of 4 sc sts (or preferred method for making a circle of 4 sc sts), pull closed and sl st to join. (4sts)

2. Ch 2, work 2dc in the same st, (2hdc, sc) in the next st, ch 2, sc in the 2nd ch from hook, (sc, 2hdc) in the next st, (2dc, ch 2, sl st) in the next st. Finish off the hearts. Leave a yarn tail on 2 of the hearts for sewing the pairs together. Weave in the ends of the other 2 hearts. Do not sew together yet.

Springy Headband Assembly

Note: These hearts work well because they are small and lightweight. If you decide you want to make bigger, stuffed items you will need to provide a stronger base and spring. 

First, find a spring or use a thin wire wrapped around a small item, like a small crochet hook or nail. 

Tug the ends of the spring until it is approximately 2.5” long. 

Flatten approximately 1” at the middle. I used a pair of pliers. Set aside.

Attaching the spring to the headband: Place the middle, flat section of the spring on top of the middle of the headband on the wig. If you did not crochet the headband to the wig you can do that in this same step. Just make sure the headband is centered on the wig. 

With a yarn needle and matching yarn (same as headband) sew around the spring and headband several times. This needs to be snug so the spring with stay in place. 

The photos below are of the 17” headband/wig, but is attached the same way.

Working with 2 hearts at a time (one with a yarn tail and one without), use a yarn needle and the yarn tail to sew the hearts together, leaving an opening at the bottom tip. Insert one end of the spring and finish sewing the hearts together. Repeat for the other hearts/end of spring.

Another Option: The little hearts are cute on bobby pins too! I first made these and slipped them in the hairstyle, but I wanted them to be more secure (plus the pins were too long… hmm, if there are smaller bobby pins this would be cute to add to other hairstyles and hats. 

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