A few years ago I designed some slippers for a charity event with Sonya of Blackstone Designs.
I love squishy soft slippers that are easy to make. At the time I had I some wonderful yarn sitting on my desk from Red Heart yarns. Hmmm, perfect color, but didn’t really seem like slipper yarn. I thought I would give it a try and OH MY HECK!!!
Red Heart Boutique Infinity Yarn Is AWESOME Slipper yarn
I made myself a pair (free pattern below) and then made some for big kids too so my son could have some.
Big Kids Happy Feet Pattern
Get the pattern for my “Big Kids Happy Feet Slippers” for free at THIS LINK.
Infinitely Happy Feet Slippers
The crochet pattern for these slippers is available for free below.
A downloadable, ad-free pattern that includes the instructions and all pictures is also available to purchase from my Ravelry Shop.
Materials and Measurements
Yarn: 150-175 yards bulky weight (size 5): suggested yarn – Red Heart Boutique Infinity Yarn
Crochet Hook: K
Miscellaneous: yarn needle to weave in ends
Gauge: 4” = 9 rows and 11 hdc
Size: Teen/adult women
- Yarns of SIMILAR WEIGHT may be substituted but may affect size and appearance.
- Work in continuous rounds, placing a marker to keep track of the beginning of the round, unless noted in pattern.
- WARNING: handmade slippers are SLIPPERY and should be worn on carpeted surfaces or
please consider adding gripper fabric or a similar item to the sole.
- Slippers begin at the toe and work towards the heel. Cuff is added last.
- Stitch counts remain the same unless noted at the end of the row.
Skill level: Intermediate Beginner with basic crochet skills, able to read a pattern and knowledge of front and back post stitches.
I think you will LOVE using Red Heart Infinity yarn. I chose the color “Blossom” which is a beautiful, rosy pink, for the adult pair. It makes a super soft pair of slippers.
1. With a K hook, start with a magic circle of 9 sc sts (or preferred method of starting a circle of 9 sc
sts), pull closed and place marker for working in the round. (9sts)
2. 2sc in each st to end of round. (18sts)
3. *hdc 8, 2hdc in next st*, repeat once. (20sts)
4. *hdc 9, 2hdc in next st*, repeat once. (22sts)
5. *hdc 10, 2hdc in next st*, repeat once. (24sts)
6. *hdc 11, 2hdc in next st*, repeat once. (26sts)
7-9. Hdc in each st to end of round.
10. Sc in next st, sl st in next st. At this point, you will start working back and forth in rows,
creating the sole of the slipper. Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, hdc 12, sc. (14sts) There will be
11. Ch 2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc 13. (14sts)
Repeat step #11 until piece is 1.5″ shorter than desired length, finishing on the WRONG
side (inside) of the slipper.
Tips for Length
- Determine this by measuring from tip of toe and referring to charts near end of pattern.
- For example, I wear a size 8 so I would keep repeating step #11 until the piece
measured 8″. Then continue below.
- Write down the number of rows you work for this part so you can work the same amount of rows for the second slipper.
12. Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc 10, hdc2tog. (12sts)
13. Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc 8, hdc2tog. (10sts)
14. Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc 6, hdc2tog. (8sts)
15. This step is worked around the top edge of the slipper. It is divided into 4 sections: first side, bridge, second side, heel. Ch 1. At this point you need to be working from the right side
(outside) of the slipper. If not, rotate the slipper to work from the right side (outside). Sc 14 sts evenly along the first side of the slipper, sc2tog (at corner of side and bridge), sc 11 across bridge, sc2tog (at corner of side and bridge), sc 14 sts evenly along second side of
slipper, (working across the heel) sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, sl st to join. (47sts)
16. Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc 12, hdc2tog, hdc 11, hdc2tog, hdc 13. The next sts are worked across the heal. Pull theses sts a little snugger than the rest. Hdc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc2tog, sl st to join. (42sts)
17-18. The slipper will start to to pull in around the top as shown in photo below. Ch 2, *FPHDC around next post, *BPHDC around next post*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join.
19. Ch 2, *FPHDC around next post, BPHDC around next post*, repeat 6 more times, *FPHDC2TOG, FPHDC, BPHDC*, repeat 2 more times, *FPHDC around next post, BPHDC around next post*, repeat 7 more times, sl st to join. (39sts)
20. Ch 2, *FPHDC around next post, BPHDC around next post*, repeat 6 more times, *FPHDC, FPHDC2TOG*, repeat 2 more times, *FPHDC around next post, BPHDC around next post*, repeat 7 more times, sl st to join. (36sts)
21. Note: Post stitches on this step will not always line up with the same post stitches as previous round. For example, a FPHDC might be worked around a BPHDC and vice versa.
Ch 2, *FPHDC, BPHDC, FPHDC, FPHDC2TOG*, repeat to end of round, sl st to join. (30sts)
22. Note: All post stitches from this point to end of pattern are front post stitches only.
Ch 2, *FPHDC2TOG, FPHDC 13*, repeat once, sl st to join. (28sts)
23-26. Ch 2, FPHDC around each post to end of round, sl st to join.
27. This step creates the little loop at the heel to help pull on the slippers. It is optional. I thought
it was cute. Ch 8, sl st in same st on slipper. Finish off, secure and weave in ends.
Extra warm feet (shown below) : start with one strand Red Heart Infinity yarn plus one strand super saver yarn. Work with both strands until cuff is started around opening of slipper. Continue with only the infinity yarn. Red heart super saver shocking pink matches Infinity Blossom really well.
Add a sole: Handmade slippers are SLIPPERY and should be worn on carpeted surfaces or please consider adding gripper fabric or similar item to the sole. Click HERE for some great suggestions.
This yarn is super soft and the slippers would make a nice gift for those who need an extra special hug.
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Morgan shelton says
Don’t use revelry do you have in your shop?